Flashback: March 17, 1985
On this stormy St. Patrick’s Day, Lori and I set out for a sea kayaking adventure. We paddled into Puget Sound, across the estuary and up the Nisqually River against a strong current as a Bald Eagle flew directly overhead heading downstream as if warning us to turn back. Cold, cloudy weather with blustery winds prevailed. The Nisqually River and refuge were cloaked with ominous dark clouds. It appeared that conditions could further deteriorate at any moment resulting in a full-fledged gale.
It was here, on this day that I intended to propose to Lori. After turning our kayaks around on the Nisqually River, and retreating to the better-protected McAllister Creek, I abandoned my intention. Instead, safety and survival became paramount. We paddled against wind and waves into a protected area at high tide a quarter mile east up McAllister Creek from its mouth in Puget Sound. Here we paused for a breather just as the winds subsided and an opening appeared in the clouds, revealing a small patch of blue sky and sufficient rays of sunshine to warm us. We pulled our kayaks together afloat in the tidal lagoon and broke out our sack lunches.
Finally, with the change in weather, the moment had arrived; my original intention was back. Following two aborted attempts due to bad weather, I finally proposed to Lori. In response, she paused for a moment, then gave me the trademark Cohen dirty look and replied “It’s about time!” As of this writing, we have been married for 35 years. Every year, we return to what is now called Billy Frank Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge to celebrate our pre-anniversary. Nowadays, we get there on foot via a one-mile board walk that overlooks the site of my proposal on McAllister Creek. It remains one of our favorite places on earth.
Fast-forward 35 years to March 17, 2021, our celebration was especially pleasant. The weather was unusually mild for mid-March; just the opposite of the conditions we encountered 35 years ago. This time, we had a sunny, calm day with temperatures in the low 50s. We took our customary loop hike through the Alder/Maple/Cottonwood riparian forest along the Nisqually River, to the twin barns and out the magnificent board walk to Puget Sound. Along our four-mile journey, we tallied 47 species of birds and three species of mammals.
The abundance of birds and wildlife here has everything to do with the size and quality of habitat in the refuge. As soon as you exit your car in the parking lot, you can hear hundreds of Cackling Geese honking (not cars!). Recent arrivals from Western Mexico, Tree Swallows, filled the sky, chattering persistently in a voice like crackling electricity.
A Peregrine Falcon, visible from the parking lot, perched atop a snag overlooking the pond behind the visitor center. This refuge was alive with sounds and the presence of nature, and we had not yet left the parking lot.
Once we started walking through the refuge, the real magic took hold. A Red-tailed Hawk eyed us calmly as it perched in the sun just 20 yards distant
over a small wet meadow. Yellow-rumped Warblers softly chipped as they foraged through the leafless alders and maples. Three kinds of woodpeckers –Downy, Hairy and Northern Flicker – called and drummed their messages to potential mates and rivals. Two Brown Creepers alerted us to their presence with high-pitched shrill warning calls and then spiraled their way up tree trunks within 15-feet of us. One climbed under a shingle of bark, investigating a potential nest site.
It looked as though the entire riparian forest was bursting into its spring foliage. Buds and leaflets were evident, early miniature flowers of Salmon Berry and Indian Plum had just opened. A greenish-yellow Skunk Cabbage unfurled along the muddy banks of a tributary creek of the Nisqually River.
The first butterflies we had seen this year flitted by – two Satyr Commas – pausing on alder bark at eye-level right next to the trail. Two Black-tailed Deer calmly browsed in a grassy glade.
Smells of the salt water tidelands mingled with the musky-sweet cottonwood scent in a fresh and earthy brew. We were transported as we always are when we come here. The five hours we spent there seemed to melt away, full of memorable sensations and wildlife encounters, but devoid of stress.
Dozens of people shared the refuge on this Wednesday, ranging from birders to photographers, to walkers, to moms with strollers, to students and researchers. The age range was large and the ethnic make-up diverse. Some come to relax, some to explore, some come for exercise, some come for mental health, and some for romance. This refuge casts a spell on you.
