In some ways, I felt like the last person I know to get to Belize. I had been hearing about it for years from friends, family, birders, divers and Mayan Ruin explorers. It has such a great reputation as an ecotourist haven; now I know why. One of my friends refers to it as “such a lovely little country with wonderful people.” Having finally travelled there, this rings true.
On a typical cool, cloudy winter Seattle day, a direct Alaska Airlines flight whisked us to Belize City in just six hours. Upon our arrival, we were hit by a blast of warm tropical air, a pleasant shock that eased us into our nearly two-week stay.
Just 15 miles away, we checked into the Black Orchid Inn at dusk along the Old Belize River. As we exited the van, we heard the beautiful descending song of an Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, reminiscent of the Canyon Wren’s song. Our tropical rainforest immersion was underway. Next morning, we awoke to bird the hotel grounds. New and familiar squawks, calls and songs provided the soundtrack for the next 13 days. Glancing across the Old Belize River at large Royal Palm Snags, I noticed shapes moving on the upper tree trunks: Amazon Red- lored Parrots.
Soon after we spotted Rose-throated Becards, Morelet’s Seedeaters, Social Flycatchers, Magnolia and Yellow-throated Warblers, and a raptor-sized Brown Jay. We were off to a roaring start, setting a pace for the 250+ total bird species, including 54 Life Birds for me, that we would tally.
Later that afternoon, we took a scenic, relaxing birding and natural history boat cruise down river. Along the way we found a group of Montezuma Oropendola, Keel-billed Toucans, Great Blue and Little Blue Herons. Amazon and Belted Kingfishers crisscrossed the river in search of fish. A Bat Falcon perched above the river where it stared at us with its penetrating dark brown eyes. Mangrove Swallows and Gray-breasted Martins flew up and downstream scooping up insects. A classic tropical sunset against the profile of palm ferns marked the end of a great first day.
Early on our second day, we awoke to a loud grating, roaring sound coming from both sides of the river. At first, I thought it was construction noise, the sound of metal equipment being dragged over pavement. Instead, it turned out to be Howler Monkey’s calling, a daily part of our sountrack for the rest of the trip.
Following a generous Belizean breakfast, complete with scrambled eggs, tortillas, fry jacks (a rectangular form of fried dough) and fresh fruit, we continued birding on the hotel grounds where we found more species: Black-cowled Oriole, Summer Tanager, Olive-throated Parakeet and a Jabiru flying across the river.
At noon, our Naturalist Journeys tour began when we met our NJ host guide, James Smith, and local guide Isaias Morataya. Following a short drive, we arrived at the Belize Zoo, founded by the enigmatic Sharon Matola, who also fought a major dam project and started a Harpy Eagle restoration program.
The zoo was rich in natural habitat, small and accessible. It felt more like a walk in the woods with abundant wildlife, rather than an institutional zoo facility bereft of nature. Charming, humorous hand-painted signs with messages from the critters’ perspective lined the trails. A wide array of Belize’s national birds and wildlife were on display. In addition to the Jaguars, Tapirs, Coati and Ocelots were captive Harpy Eagles, Jabiru, and Ornate Hawk Eagles.
A tribute to the late Sharon Matola made the zoo visit complete. Having just read the outstanding book: The Last Flight of the Scarlet Macaws by Bruce Barcott, which chronicles Sharon’s amazing life, seeing the zoo was especially meaningful. My only regret was that we could not meet her; she tragically passed in 2021 at the age of 67.
A few hours from the zoo, we passed through San Ignacio, where we turned onto a rugged six-mile road leading up to a lushly-vegetated canyon along
the Macal River in the Mayan Mountain Range. Here we transitioned from one of Belize’s largest cities to fruit orchards, then deep forest, where Black Rock Lodge lies.
The Lodge’s 242-acre location features numerous trails and over 1100 feet of elevation change from the Macal River to various mountain peaks and canyon ridges, an ideal environment for nearly 390 species of birds.
The Macal River rapids and mountain scenery are front and center thanks to a stunning open-air vista from the lodge restaurant. On our first day, we saw more than 70 species including a distant view of the rare Orange-breasted Falcon, Black and White Hawk Eagle and Long-billed Hermit Hummingbird on the Black Rock Lodge grounds.
The lodge has lovely, secluded cabins and serves outstanding food and drinks to match its extraordinary setting. The staff are charming and engaging.
Day two of the NJ tour combined lodge area birding in the morning and a tour of the nearby Belize Botanic Garden in the afternoon. At the latter site, we learned about native plants, trees, and orchids, along with the BBG’s impressive local restoration efforts. Birds of course are a part of every visit, and this one was no exception. We had perhaps our best looks at a Lesson’s Motmots with their turquoise rackets glistening in the sun.
On day three of the NJ tour, we set out for Spanish Lookout Mennonite rice fields with large ponds and wetlands bordered by Rio Brava National Park. This relatively flat landscape, interspersed with trees, fences and hedgerows, yielded 16 different species of raptors in one day! Rarities like Grassland Yellow Finch, Ruddy Crake, and the Southernmost Loggerhead Shrike (spotted by our excellent local guide Isaias Morataya) added to the day’s excitement. Over 100 species were tallied this day.
Day four had most of our crew birding their way to the Caracol Mayan Ruins while two of us — Denise and I — stayed back at Black Rock Lodge. All of us had fabulous days at our respective locations. According to Lori and the others who went there, the ruins were extensive, inspiring, and very birdy. In addition to exploring the ruins themselves, her highlights were seeing a White Hawk and Three Chestnut-colored Woodpeckers.
Meanwhile, Denise and I joined lodge guides Andy and Jennifer for two highly productive bird walks on the grounds that yielded 35 species, including a White Hawk, White-throated Puffbird, and a Pale-billed Woodpecker. We also appreciated the down time to catch up on photos, correspondence, reading and just hanging out near the lodge.
Day five took us to the Slate Creek trail and lookout in the mountain pine forest highlands. At first it was quiet at the lookout, but soon after a King Vulture soared by, a parade of other species joined it in the thermals, including: Black and Turkey Vultures; Gray-headed, Swallow-tailed, Double-toothed and Plumbeous Kites; Black Hawk Eagle; Great Black and White Hawks, and a Peregrine Falcon. Many of these soared over head or just off the edge of the ledge where we were standing.
While enjoying the soaring raptor show, Isaias called us with a sense of urgency. We hustled down a short section of trail to a wooded area where there was an overlook in the opposite direction. There, Isaias had his spotting scope set up, and urged us to look through it immediately. As each of us did, we saw an eye-popping view of an electric-blue bird perched on the top of the canopy — a Lovely Cotinga!
Later on this exceptional day, we toured a butterfly ranch where we re-learned from elementary school days the butterfly life cycle, except this time we saw graphic evidence of each stage of the cycle. While we were in the enclosure, hundreds of butterflies flew all around us, at times landing on our hats. This was further enhanced by a visit to hummingbird feeders on site which provided close looks at White-necked Jacobin, Green Mango, and Violet Sabrewing Hummingbirds, pictured below.
From here, we continued to Bocawina Rainforest Lodge, set in a large protected area with extensive forested grounds, abundant bird life and multiple ecotourist attractions like waterfalls, caves, and birdwatching. This combination explains in a nutshell why Belize is such an outstanding ecotourism destination. Habitat is the key, and Belize has had the foresight to place 36% of its terrestrial ecosystems and 23% of its marine ecosystems in protective status. The abundance of Belize’s unspoiled habitat was evident on our flight from Punta Gorda to Belize City where roadless, vast undeveloped area with extensive wetlands comprised the majority of the landscapes below.
Day 6 of NJ Tour: We took a short drive to Cockscomb Nature Refuge. Home to the largest population of Jaguars in Belize, this massive refuge also hosts a wide array of bird species. Iconic birds including a Crested Guan, Golden-hooded Tanager (both pictured below) and a Great Tinamou greeted us at the entrance. In addition, we tallied more than 100 other bird species and three species of mammals: a Deppe’s Squirrel, Central American Red Brocket (a small deer species), and a White-nosed Coati, while exploring this refuge.
Afterward, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Maya Center, where a young Mayan man gave an excellent presentation and demonstration about the origin of chocolate, including samples. We all participated in the process.
Day 7, NJ Tour: It is always special when you can go birding right outside your door, as we did this morning at the Bocawina RF Resort grounds. And the birding was productive, including 58 species total, including three species of woodpeckers: Black-cheeked, Chestnut-colored, (both pictured below) Golden-fronted Woodpeckers and a Yellow-bellied Sapsucker.
Following this relaxed start and pleasant “birdy” walk, we drove several hours to Tanager Rainforest Lodge in time for lunch. The staff greeted us with enthusiasm and excellent food. We checked into our comfortable thatched-roof (yet air-conditioned) cabins overlooking the Rio Grande River. In the mid-afternoon, Tanager guide and enthusiastic host Steve Choco took us birding on the expansive lodge grounds where we found 58 species, featuring several new trip birds: Bright-rumped Attila, Cinnamon-bellied Saltator and Scarlet-rumped Tanager (picture below).
Day 8, NJ Tour: Highlights of this day were finding several rare and unusual Boat-billed Herons, along with a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron at Piedra Lagoon. Returning to the Tanager RF Lodge grounds, Steve turned up an amazing 94 species of birds, including the illusive Great Antshrike, Rufous-breasted Spinetail and Mayan Antthrush. This took a lot of doing on Steve’s part, such as expert scoping, bird call imitations, and anticipating the movements of these reclusive forest species.
Day 9, NJ Tour: Mayan culture was front and center today, starting with a tour of the Nim Li Punit Mayan ruins. This compact yet rich site features three separate hilltop habitation buildings linked by a public space containing a ballcourt. It also includes building remains, stairs, and an impressive selection of stelas – large stone tablets with etched hieroglyphics. We were awed by this site of a thriving Mayan village from 400-850 AD. Fifty-two species of birds joined us at this outstanding cultural site, including a Plumbeous Kite that was nest-building.
Later that morning we hiked one of the most productive birding trails of the entire trip at Blue Creek Village. In a one mile-span along Blue Creek, we tallied 62 species, including four species of Trogons, a Keel-billed Toucan, a nesting Common Black Hawk and a Whiskered Puffbird!
Day 10, NJ Tour: Our last full day began at the yard of Pearleen’s restaurant, where we previously had lunch. Here we found two Spot-breasted Orioles together – a life bird for just about everyone. Afterward, we had breakfast at the Tunich Ha Reserve & Ecological Center where we learned about their impressive commitment to conservation and education. White-collared Manakins and Keel-billed Toucans flourished on the Center grounds along with the 50 other species we found that day.
We then drove a short distance to Punta Gorda, where we followed the
Caribbean Ocean coastline. Here we encountered several trip birds: Cinnamon Hummingbird, Magnificent Frigatebird, Neotropical Cormorant, Sandwich Tern, and Yellow-crowned Night Heron.
Returning to Tanager Lodge, some of us accompanied Steve for a final search for challenging forest birds. Thanks to his uncanny ability to call, track and spot them, we all saw Mayan Antthrush, Smoky-brown Woodpecker and White-winged Becard, among others.
This climaxed a tour where we saw Belize’s national bird – the Keel Billed Toucan; Its national flower – the Black Orchid; and its national animal – the Tapir (the latter at Belize Zoo). All are wonderful and fitting symbols of Belize’s magnificent tropical rainforests. And we learned about the deep sense of community that still exists in Belize, exemplified by the construction and repair of thatched roofs, which is done on a rotating basis by multiple members of the community, including Steve Choco (pictured below).
We all returned happily to the lodge to swim, tube in the river, and enjoy our last wonderful meal together. In the evening, we borrowed a guitar and Dave and I led songs – an appropriately festive way to conclude a spectacular tour.
Special thanks to our exceptional guides who enhanced the journey:
• James Smith, Naturalist Journeys lead guide
• Isaias Morataya, Black Rock Lodge & regional guide
• Jennifer Resinos and Andy Tush, Black Rock Lodge guides
• Roni Martinez, Bocawina Rainforest Lodge guide
• Steve Choco, Tanager Rainforest Lodge and regional guide
And to our “happy” crew (as James referred to us) who made the trip fun, spotted lots of birds, and contributed friendship, knowledge, enthusiasm, humor, and even songs:
James, Lori, Me, Sara, Denise, Jan, Bill, Isaias, Bill, and Dave at Bocawina Resort
