Prior to our long-anticipated Naturalist Journey tour of the Pantanal, I read, studied, and researched what we might encounter. Then I made a target list of 30 birds, mammals—and even a few fish. Remarkably, we saw 27 of the 30 species on my wish list. But that impressive tally was only one measure of how extraordinary our trip was. Even more remarkable was the opportunity to see several species that had once been pushed to the brink of extinction—and are now making impressive comebacks.
Three of the Pantanal’s most iconic animals are the Hyacinth Macaw, Yacare Caiman, and Jaguar. All three were and still are threatened by habitat loss and exploitation. All three have benefited from conservation measures that have since reversed their declining populations.
The “King of Parrots” Makes a Comeback
Our guide Xavier said there was no need for an alarm clock at Aguape Lodge in the Pantanal. True to his word, at 5 a.m., a flock of Chaco Chachalacas were our alarm clock.
At 5:30, I opened our cabin door. A Plush-crested Jay flew from the courtyard. Dozens of Blue-and-yellow Macaws were already perched in a large tree, their heads turning in unison to watch me as I walked by.
Then I spotted four massive Hyacinth Macaws in the tops of palm trees loudly squabbling and feeding together, their raspy parrot voices drowning out all conversations.
The Hyacinth Macaw measures three feet long from head to tip of its tail, making it the largest member of the parrot family. Its size and striking cobalt-blue plumage are a sight to behold. Today, an estimated 6,500 remain in the wild—an astonishing decline from historical estimates that reached as high as three million birds. Yet a significant increase from their diminished population 40 years ago.
The species suffered from a devastating combination of habitat loss, hunting and the wild bird pet trade. Native forests were cleared for crops and cattle ranching, reducing nesting sites and increasing competition for the remaining habitat.The pet trade was particularly destructive. National Geographic referred to the Hyacinth Macaw as the “king of parrots.” During the 1980s, an estimated 10,000 birds were taken from the wild for the pet trade. By 1990, the wild population was believed to have fallen to only about 1,500 individuals. Their future looked grim.
Fortunately, conservation efforts changed the trajectory. The wild trade in Hyacinth Macaws was prohibited, and national laws and international agreements—including CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) —provided additional protection.
From Millions of Skins to Millions of Caimans
The comeback of the Yacare Caiman was even more dramatic. Today, it is hard to imagine the Pantanal without caimans. They seem to be everywhere—basking along riverbanks, slipping through the water, and crowding the beaches along lagoons, but it wasn’t always this way.
In his excellent book The Heart of the Jaguar, James Campbell describes how, during the 1980s, caimans were relentlessly hunted by coureiros, or “leather men,” who killed millions of them for their skins. Their population plummeted.
First came global alarm, then conservation efforts. International protection through CITES, a Brazilian government crackdown, and a 1992 global ban on the trade in wild crocodilian skins helped stop the slaughter.
Because Yacare Caimans reproduce rapidly, their numbers rebounded dramatically. Today, nearly 10 million inhabit the Pantanal. Their comeback helped another threatened species recover.
The Jaguar Effect
The return of abundant caimans and Capybaras provided an important food base for the Pantanal’s top predator: the Jaguar.
James Campbell wrote that he had seen wolves, wolverines, grizzlies, polar bears, lions, elephants and countless other wild animals in their natural habitats—but no animal had captured his imagination quite like the Jaguar. I understand exactly what he meant. We saw 10 Jaguars during our trip, and those encounters rank among the most extraordinary wildlife experiences of my life. But as spectacular as the Jaguars themselves were, something else struck me: there was enough habitat, a functioning wetland ecosystem with an adequate prey base to support them.
Jaguars have an impressive collection of survival skills. They can hunt by day or night, climb trees, swim across rivers and run at speeds approaching 50 mph. Their spotted golden coats provide superb camouflage in the dappled light of the forest. According to World Wildlife Fund, “The name “jaguar” originates from the Tupi and Guarani languages of South America from the word yaguareté, or “true, fierce beast and he who kills in one leap.” (up to a 15 foot leap!)
And they are remarkably versatile predators. In addition to their primary prey—Caimans and Capybaras—they eat deer, tortoises, iguanas, armadillos, fish, birds, monkeys and even Brazil’s largest mammal, the Brazilian Tapir. As top predators, Jaguars also play an important ecological role. They help regulate populations of other animals, including species that can damage crops or carry diseases.
Yet Jaguars themselves have been heavily persecuted. According to Walker, an estimated 180,000 Jaguars were killed in the Brazilian Amazon alone between 1962 and 1975. The international trade in Jaguar parts was also substantial. Their fangs, skulls, skins and claws were openly sold in markets across South America. The scale of the slaughter was staggering.
International concern leading to protection began to turn the tide. In 1975, CITES placed Jaguars under its highest level of protection, recognizing that illegal trade had reached alarming levels and threatened the species with extinction.Today, 64,000-173,000 Jaguars survive across their range in 19 countries from Mexico to Argentina, with Brazil supporting the largest populations. Their reclusive nature and remote habitats make precise census counts difficult.
Like other rare species, their future depends on maintaining the connections between populations—the Jaguar corridors that allow these wide-ranging cats to move between habitats, find mates and maintain genetic diversity.The concept of Jaguar corridors was championed by the late conservationist Alan Rabinowitz, who established Belize’s first Jaguar reserve. Protecting these connected landscapes will be essential if Jaguars are to continue occupying much of their historic range, including the possibility of returning to the U.S. Southwest.
When Conservation Becomes an Economic Asset
The stories of the Hyacinth Macaw, Yacare Caiman and Jaguar share something important: Conservation not only saves animals and ecosystems; it creates economic opportunity.
The recovery of Jaguars and their abundant prey has transformed wildlife into one of the Pantanal’s most valuable natural resources. Visitors like us now travel thousands of miles—and spend considerable sums—to experience what was once being destroyed.
Ecotourism has surged in the Pantanal, creating income for guides, lodges, restaurants, transportation providers and local communities. Instead of wildlife being valuable primarily as skins, meat or trophies, living animals have become an economic asset. It turns out that a living jaguar is more valuable than a dead one. The same is true for the Hyacinth Macaw and Caiman.
The Pantanal is one of the world’s great wildlife ecosystems, home to Jaguars, Giant Otters, Hyacinth Macaws, Caimans, Capybaras and an extraordinary diversity of birds and other wildlife. It is also a showcase for ecotourism, which when done responsibly provides a powerful incentive to keep wildlife alive and ecosystems intact.
